A Brief Guide to Affettati, Salumi, and Insaccati

Carne Salata, one of the most popular of the affettati, is salted cured meat from the Alto Adige. You may make your own version by using the recipe.

Bresaola, another northern specialty, this time of the Valtellina district of Lombardy, is beef that has been cured by salting and air-drying. The high altitude and cold air of the area are perfect for preserving the meat. Fillet or loin is the cut of choice, as the meat must be lean to prevent spoilage. Bresaola is commonly served in paper-thin slices, dressed with lemon juice, extra-virgin olive oil, and black pepper, although it is also sometimes paired with sections of grapefruit, wild greens, and olive oil. It should not be cut too far ahead of time, or it will darken and discolor. At the Enoteca Costantini in Rome, I was treated to a plate that compared three kinds of bresaola: beef, horse, and deer. The horse meat was quite sweet, the deer meat rather gamey, and the beef the perfect middle taste. Some enotecas are known for their salume di selvaggina, the cured meats of deer, wild boar, or mountain goat.