Introduction

The ancient ruins at Ostia Antica, just outside of Rome, reveal what used to be a blocksquare apartment house on the via Diana (so-named because a statue of the goddess Diana was discovered there). In one corner of the building, almost totally intact, is an early Roman enoteca, or wine bar. It is so well preserved that, with a little tasteful remodeling and some modern plumbing, it could be reopened for business by a savvy entrepreneur. The main bar fronted directly onto the street, so that passersby could easily stop for a glass of wine. There were basins for washing dishes and glassware, and even a counter on which to display wine and food. On one wall is a painting of the food that was available, an early Roman version of the blackboard menu. Fast forward to today and Terminal A at Rome’s nearby Fiumicino Airport. Hungry travelers waiting for a flight can stop at the Enoteca Frescobaldi for a glass of wine and some appetizers ordered from a blackboard menu. Thus, the tradition continues.