Evan Goldstein’s Introduction to the Wine Notes

Appears in
Enoteca

By Joyce Goldstein

Published 2001

  • About

It goes by many names: the Italian enoteca, the French bar à vin, or the relatively recent innovation, the American wine bar. As has been noted, the roots of this institution are Italian, and the classic enoteca, with its resounding focus on wine, is the paradigm. What makes it so special is its foundation in regionalism. A bistecca alla fiorentina served with a young, juicy Chianti, and a sublime fonduta or risotto accompanied by a famed Barbera or Nebbiolo from Piedmont, are illustrative models of regional wine and food pairing.