‘A treatise on the egg—this protean of the kitchen—is still to be written’: so wrote Monselet in one of his ‘Lettres Gourmandes’ printed in the journal L'Evénement many years ago.
Since then a number of books especially devoted to this commodity which the ancients considered as a symbol of the world, have been written; however, not one of them has been able to bring together the vast number of recipes that have been created on the spur of the moment or by the inspiration of cooks.
Thus no attempt has been made in this chapter to include everything that has been written on the subject and the chapter is restricted to those recipes which are in current use, observing wherever possible the correct relationship between the name and the method of preparation which is always the guiding principle throughout this book.