Batter Up! The Blackbird Bakery All-Star Team

The range of flours available to use in gluten-free baking and cooking gives us a very different perspective from the ethos embodied by the phrase “all-purpose.” Each of the flours that goes into your pantry you’ll choose for a certain set of attributes: some, chiefly for flavor, or a combination of flavor and texture; others for their ability to bring cohesion to a batter or dough. Here are the characteristics and quirks of my top four heavy-hitters.