When I asked Alice Waters for the particulars of the hamburger she had once served at the Café at Chez Panisse, she could not recall them. But, she said, she did “have some ideas about hamburgers.” Here they are, but in a slightly edited version of the form in which she gave them to me:
“The bread is vital. I use a relatively soft roll, not too thick, with lots of taste. The roll is cut, toasted, drizzled with olive oil, and rubbed with a clove of garlic.
“The meat is vital. I buy hormone-free ground chuck with a medium amount of fat. I chop up a little garlic finely and mix it with the meat, then form the meat into hamburgers and salt and pepper them. I slice up an onion and fry it in the same pan with the meat, adding a touch of olive oil if necessary. Or, ideally, I cook the meat over charcoal and grill the onion slices. Either way, I always brown the meat, and it’s always rare inside.