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22 Chicken à la King and Bidimensional Piranha

Appears in
Everything on the Table

By Colman Andrews

Published 1992

  • About

On no account should new terms or names [for dishes] be created.

—L. SAULNIER, LE RÉPERTOIRE DE LA CUISINE

In a leo cullum cartoon in the new Yorker in 1984, one Eskimo offers another a platter bearing a single, unadorned whole fish. “It’s called fettuccine Alfredo,” the first Eskimo announces.

Well, now, a plate of fish is obviously not fettuccine Alfredo—but then neither is most of what’s served under that name in the restaurants of America today Food nomenclature in this country in general, in fact, has degenerated in recent years into a hash of misnomer, a stew of garbled terminology.

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