You don’t need to grow up eating soup for it always, somehow, to take you straight back home. It’s an inherently comforting thing to eat: nurturing and reassuring at the end of the day. For Sami, growing up, what was made into soup at home reflected what was being grown in the fields and sold in the market. Batches made were big and the cost of feeding a large family was kept in check. Spring meant besara, for example, making use of all the broad beans, molokhieh and soft herbs in season. Autumn and winter meant dark green chard and lentil soup or something hearty like freekeh with chicken meatballs.