It is a wise traveller who breaks his journey at La Bonne Etape in Château Arnoux, on the Route Napoléon, halfway between Grenoble and Nice: in fact it is worth making a detour in order to stay a night or two at this charming hostelry run by Pierre and Arlette Gleize and their son Jany. The former Hôtel de la Gare of this town just below Sisteron in the Haute Provence has been transformed by the Gleize family into what is to all intents and purposes a little French château, with beautifully arranged bedrooms, an elegant dining room and a comfortable bar. One senses immediately upon arriving that it is a family-run business, comfortable and unpretentious.