Troisième Service

Appears in
A Feast Made for Laughter

By Craig Claiborne

Published 1982

  • About

VIN DE MADÈRE, 1835

CALVADOS, 1865

COGNAC hors d’age Denis

Charlotte glacée aux fraises, sauce cardinal
A cold glazed charlotte with strawberries.
Île flottante
Poached egg-shaped meringues floating in a vanilla custard.
Poires Alma
Cold pears poached in a Port wine syrup with zest of orange, sprinkled with praline powder and crowned with whipped cream.

Adieu to salt and no regrets. A total farewell to sodium in its commonest, most widely used form.

Even as a child I had almost an addiction to salt. It was customary in my home to make fresh ice cream every Sunday in a hand-cranked freezer. To prepare it, the dasher would go into the freezer barrel, the custard would be added, and the barrel set to turn, surrounded by a heavy packing of ice and rock salt. When the ice cream was ready and the lid lifted from the canister, a rock salt crystal would occasionally drop into the ice cream. I would hastily scoop up a spoon of the ice cream with the salt chunk and taste it, letting the salt melt slowly in my mouth after the ice cream was gone.