Menu Four

Ask any cook who has worked with me—they’ll tell you I’m a fanatic about asparagus. I’ve driven kitchen apprentices half crazy making them go through entire cases to choose only the most perfect spears. I adore asparagus, but it must be freshly picked or I’m not interested. I wouldn’t even think about eating asparagus shipped from Chile or Peru in November. I scoff at the early asparagus that arrives around Valentine’s Day. I’ll just wait for the real thing, thank you. It means spring has arrived, and it’s worth the wait.