Menu Nine

Yellow Hunger

Appears in

#96A Platter of Figs and Other Recipes
A Platter of Figs and Other Recipes

By David Tanis

Published 2008

  • About

This is a book of recipes and menus, but I hope what it is, too, is a book about cooking by instinct—improvisational, the sort of cooking that doesn’t need a recipe. Take zucchini. Take it, please. I know, it’s the summer garden’s little joke: too much, too big, not funny. Or is it?

Say you cut up an onion. Stew it slowly, salted lightly, in plenty of olive oil. Chop a zucchini or three—yellow or green, any size is fine, cubes are good. Add salt and garlic and a little red chile and simmer slowly over moderate heat until the squash is tender and juicy.