Menu Fourteen

Many people think they don’t like anchovies, usually because they have only tasted them straight from the tin or on a bad pizza. Even if you get the oil-packed supermarket variety, a little judicious soaking will improve their flavor. As a rule, though, the better the quality of the anchovy to begin with, the better the result. I always try to bring a few jars home when I’m traveling in anchovy territory: French anchovies from Collioure in the Languedoc-Roussillon, or any anchovies from the coastal areas of the Basque country.