Serving Food: Pretty Versus Beautiful

Generally I don’t like pretty food, but I am in awe of beautiful food. Here’s what I mean: I think food should look natural, not contrived. Plums in a bowl are nothing more than a repetition of shapes: what could be more beautiful? Tender green beans—briefly cooked, dressed with oil, and gently piled on a platter—are beautiful in a way that stacked, squeezed, decorated, gussied-up creations will never be. Simple well-worn earthen cooking vessels, cazuelas, gratin dishes, deep bowls, terrines—all enhance the simple glory of the food itself. Platters speak of abundance and generosity. There’s a communal aspect to a platter as well: It must be passed from diner to diner. It must be shared.