Bass

This magnificent firm-fleshed fish for me is king. Far superior to even a good salmon. It is versatile –you can steam it, bake it, grill it, use it in la bourride and, thinly sliced, it can take pride of place in a Japanese sashimi. The only trouble is that it is expensive and sometimes difficult to obtain – mainly because Chinese chefs are prepared to get up early to buy the lot to make Bass with Spring Onion and Ginger. (If ever you go to fish markets, sidle up to a Chinese person and watch him shop. You will learn a thing or two.)