Bouillabaisse

The pundits say that bouillabaisse does not travel, mainly because you cannot obtain the right fish for authenticity. And certainly I agree that it is hard to recapture the scent of the hot Marseilles streets, the whiff of petrol and Gauloises that waft around you as you sit under a blue bâche on the freshly washed terrace of a neat restaurant humming with controlled hysteria and excitement.