Hot fish mousses make excellent starters or light lunches and if you have a liquidiser they are easy to prepare. You can use practically any fish you like. Nadine Perrigault of Restaurant L’Armada in Cancale, Brittany, showed me a delightful dish of artichokes stuffed with red mullet mousse, garnished with hollandaise sauce, which made a superb lunch. Equally, trout, perch or any white fish adapt well to mousses but, unlike the stronger-flavoured red mullet, will need a more powerful sauce, such as shellfish sauce. I do not recommend smoked fish for these dishes.