Pull away the suet from around the kidney. Then, with your fingertips or a small knife, remove the thin, sausage-skin-like membrane from the kidney. You will see a ball of white fat and nerve at the centre: meticulously cut all of this away. As you do so the kidney will unfold so that it resembles a knobbly steak. The meat should be shiny and a little pale. If not to be used immediately, the kidney should be brushed with a little good-quality oil.
© 1988 Keith Floyd estate. All rights reserved.