Despite the dramatic progress in cooking and changing tastes, beef in some form or another still remains about the most popular dish in Britain. I suppose the Berni Brothers were responsible for this when thirty-odd years ago they launched their chain of steak houses, and despite the fact that the pretentious gastronauts of the day were disparaging of such places, it was easier then than now to eat a perfectly grilled steak. The trouble today is that people take steak, be it fillet, rump or sirloin, so much for granted that they whack it into a pan or under the grill with no thought or respect for the quality or preparation of the meat, and although there is no disputing the excellence of, say, Entrecôtes Canailles, so brilliantly conceived by les frères Roux, there is nothing to beat a simple well-grilled steak.