Techniques

Foie gras is graded “A,” “B,” and “C,” based on size and the amount of imperfections and bruises. I recommend using only As and Bs. An A foie gras, usually about a pound and a quarter to a pound and three quarters, which will serve four to six people, costs fifty to seventy-five dollars; so for fifty or more dollars, you can have an extraordinary experience.

The ducks raised here for foie gras are either moulard or muscovy. I use moulard foie gras rather than muscovy, because I’ve found that it holds up better in cooking and results in a higher yield.