Powders are primarily a visual device, to make a dish look more appealing. They’re typically a by-product related to the dish—tomato powder for a tomato salad, beet powder when we’re serving beets. But some of our powders have a more pronounced effect on the finished dish. The squab spice is used both as a spice and as a powder: It seasons the squab sauce and then interacts with the sauce again on the plate in the final presentation; also, it’s very volatile, so when it hits a hot plate, the oils in the spices add an exciting aromatic dimension to the dish. The dried horseradish, not ground to powder, adds a distinct flavor and crunch.