Seafood

IN FRANCE, fish dishes are the aristocrats of the culinary repertoire. Fish are accorded a respect and admiration that is born of several things. First, fish has always been expensive, making it a rarity and a delicacy. Second, because of the delicate taste of most fish, it has always been served with highly refined sauces. If you go to a restaurant that is known for its fish dishes in France, be assured the sauces will be well prepared.

In this country, it has been for only about 25 years that we have had a reliable source of fresh fish and seafood outside of coastal cities. As soon as we started appreciating sushi and all the different ways fish is prepared in other countries, we started eating more fresh fish—and expecting the market to provide it.