On the Zibdiya

A zibdiya is the most rudimentary and most precious kitchen item in every household in Gaza, rich or poor, urban or rural, as well as in Gazan Palestinian households in the diaspora. It is simply a handmade heavy unglazed clay bowl made with Gaza’s rough, sandy clay, accompanied by a lemonwood pestle. Though similar implement sexist elsewhere in the region, the zibdiya’s absolute omnipresence in the preparation and presentation of all manner of foods in Gaza makes it a key to the whole cuisine.

As you will see, there are few recipes in this book that don’t begin “In a mortar and pestle, crush....” Crushing, pounding, grinding: the base of flavor for nearly every dish, and often the first thing a curious child will be asked to help out with. The many spices used in Gazan cooking are ideally ground in a zibdiya. Its rough walls are perfect for crushing garlic to a creamy pulp or for grinding dill seeds just until fragrant. It serves for mashing and mixing salad ingredients, then doubles as a handsome bowl to serve the salad.