For the most part, I’ve found high-concept restaurant desserts fail to satisfy after an epic meal. Multiple purées, tuiles, quenelles of strange gelatos, and dehydrated crumbles all look cool, but generally don’t hit that soulful note I am after. Even the words “pastry chef” tend to carry pretense that suggests an elevated style. In our kitchen, the word “baker” is more applicable to the style of desserts we want to serve, desserts your grandmother or mother might have baked if you were lucky. It says something about our desserts that our most popular is, essentially, a pudding. Our desserts typically have limited components and often employ some degree of a savory-sweet balance.