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Published 2002
What a paradox that pigs, lovable and generous creatures who, useful in life, help us find truffles and, noble in death, end up on our tables, have become synonymous with gluttony, slobbishness, and avarice. Pigs are neither gluttons nor slobs (they prefer water to mud), and they are no greedier than any other creature and far less greedy than man. What’s more, the pig is the most versatile of beasts. Every part is used: the head to make headcheese, the blood to make sausages (boudins noirs), the feet to be grilled or to make gelée, the loins to make lovely roasts and chops, and the hind legs to make one of the greatest of all foods, ham.
