I have to admit that my first fondue and virtually every one I’ve had since have been enjoyed, not in a romantic chalet, but at my aunt Jane’s house in Los Angeles, usually on a bright, sunny day. Long before cheese fondue became popular in the United States, Jane would return from lengthy trips to Europe with her husband, Frank, and would reproduce for their homebound friends and family their experiences in Greek tavernas, Italian trattorias, and Parisian bistros. Of all Jane’s specialties, cheese fondue has become a tradition so entrenched that we have it whenever I visit her lovely home perched on a hill. Cheese fondue takes only about 10 minutes to make. It is always served with a glass or two of kirsch and an abundance of cool white wine.