Niçoise Onion, Olive, and Anchovy Tart

• Two Ways to Make Pizza Dough
• How to Use a Natural Bread Starter
• How to Repack Salted Anchovies
• How to Make Traditional French Flatbreads and “Pancakes”

If you ever find yourself traipsing around nice, or any little town within a short drive of the French Riviera, you’ll see large square pissaladières in the Windows of pastry shops. Sadly, most of them are rather drab looking—like pizzas that didn’t quite make it.

But the comparison to pizza is unfair because a well-made pissaladière has a savory identity all its own. Even the origin of the words is different. In La Cuisine Niçoise, Jacques Médecin states that the word pissaladière comes from pissala, a kind of anchovy paste that, at least in traditional versions, is spread over the dough before baking.