Flavored Consommés

After wading through Escoffier’s scores of more predictable consommé derivatives, we arrive at an interesting section devoted to consommés that are served in cups for late-night suppers. They are served either cold or hot, depending on the season, and because of this, they contain no garniture. To paraphrase Escoffier, “they must be perfect onto themselves.” These understated recipes appeal to modern tastes because their emphasis is entirely on flavor. Here we encounter quall consommé, made by roasting quails, removing their breasts for another dish, and simmering the rest in the broth with other ingredients as part of the clarification process. Other variations include celery, tarragon, morel, pimento, and truffle, each made by infusing the ingredient in question in hot broth during the clarification process, and then straining. Various wines are used, usually sweet full-flavored wines such as Madeira, marsala, or muscat, but these wines must be added before the consommé is clarified because their acidity causes soluble proteins in the consommé to become insoluble and cloud the consommé.