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Published 2002
Anyone who has traveled in provence, the region in eastern France whose border on the Mediterranean forms the French Riviera (the Côte d’Azur), will have seen loup de mer au fenouil on restaurant menus. In flashy places, those catering especially to tourists, you’ll encounter loup de mer flambé au fenouil, which involves the extra step of dousing the fish with pastis, a strong fennel-flavored drink, and igniting the now-etherized fish at the table. While I have nothing against pastis, it doesn’t belong on a fish.