Grilling Whole Fish

Appears in
Glorious French Food

By James Peterson

Published 2002

  • About
Because the only tricky part of grilling a whole fish is to keep it from sticking to the grill, cooks have developed a number of strategies for this. To avoid the problem altogether, just leave the scales on the fish and then peel the skin and scales off the fish before serving. This method is popular in restaurants in France, and it can be used either for the whole table, if it’s a big fish, or for yourself, if it’s a small fish. The layer of scales and skin seals in the fish’s juices and flavor and the scales act as a nonstick surface for the fish. The only disadvantage to this method is that you can’t eat the skin. If you want to eat the skin, which when grilled is crispy and delicious, you risk having the skin stick to the grill and tear when you turn over the fish or take it off the grill. While it seems impossible to avoid sticking every time, you can usually prevent it by making sure your grill is immaculate. I spray mine with heavy-duty oven cleaner, brush it with a steel brush, and rinse it thoroughly. I then get the grill burning-hot over the coals. After cutting off the fins with heavy scissors so I don’t get poked, I brush or rub the fish with olive oil and sprinkle it with coarse salt immediately before setting it on the grill. Once you’ve set the fish on the grill, don’t move it until you’re ready to turn it over. When turning over the fish or taking it off the grill, don’t just slide a spatula under it or you’ll tear the skin. Instead, slide a long 2-pronged fork between the grill grids and gently lift up the fish, detaching it, before sliding a spatula underneath.