We don’t run into salmis much any more, probably because the method is best used for real wild game, not the farm-raised variety—the only kind that’s legal to sell in the United States. A salmi is made using two basic techniques, roasting and braising, and is generally used for relatively small birds. The bird is partially roasted, the breasts and legs are carved off, and the carcass is chopped up and simmered in a concentrated broth. The partially cooked breasts and legs are then gently reheated (sometimes in a chafing dish) in the sauce. Depending on the variety of bird, the innards are worked into a paste and used to thicken the sauce, or they’re spread on little pieces of bread and used to prop the pieces of bird up on the plate.