I had never seen a fresh bean until I first went to Italy, where the markets were filled with garish heaps of scarlet-streaked cranberry beans. Years later, in New York, I could find fava beans in Italian markets where it seemed that, other than the occasional elderly Italian lady, I was the only one to buy them. Now, of course, fresh beans can be found in most farmers’ markets. Beans in any form make a perfect foil for rich foods like duck, pork, and even foie gras, but fresh beans have a delicate texture all their own. They also have the advantage of cooking quickly and not needing to be soaked.