I’m not the only one to lament the tasteless fruit that shows up in even the fanciest grocery stores and at the height of the season. While in the summer I can usually track down decent fruit at a farmers’ market, grocery-store fruit is hopeless. When I’m hankering for fruit but am stuck with something tasteless or underripe, I make poached fruit. In the winter, when my friends and I are fruit starved, I make an assortment of poached fruits and pass them around the table for guests to spoon over vanilla ice cream.