By George Motz
Published 2016
My good friends
I’ve come across plenty of dough-wrapped, deep-fried foods in my extensive global eating adventures. Many, many foodways of the world have some version of filled, cooked dough, most of it street food and all of it tasty. The list is enormous, but consider the Brazilian pastel, the Southern fruit-filled hand pie, the Cornish pasty, kolaches, dumplings, pierogis, potstickers, and empanadas just to name a few. There’s even the crumbly loose beef-and-cabbage-stuffed bierock (see recipe), which goes back to the beginning of the nineteenth century, invented by Germans living along the Volga River in Russia. When we define the burger, it is understood that Americans were the first to make the Hamburg steak portable by serving it on bread. But the beef-filled bierock predates that invention by almost a hundred years, loosely challenging (no pun intended) the established history of the hamburger.
Advertisement
Advertisement