The Cross of St Andrew flutters lazily over Castle Stalker – claiming ownership, suggesting residency. But the place looks forlorn and deserted, a lonely forbidding stone tower rising absurdly on its islet in Loch Linnhe. It is a famous landmark in these parts and it is also a useful signpost alerting travellers that, if Port Appin is their destination and Airds their hotel, they have only two more miles to go. When they arrive, they will not be disappointed. Airds is, perhaps, the most romantic and agreeable small hotel in the Western Highlands.