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By Anne Willan
Published 1977
The spacious early nineteenth-century kitchens of the Brighton Pavilion, built for the Prince Regent. Note the splendid array of copper pans (which can still be seen), and the metal covers on the central table for keeping food hot.
Antonin Carême is probably the greatest cook of all time. Born in 1783, just before the French Revolution consigned the static elegance of the Versailles court to oblivion, his work reflects the freedom of thought and action that flooded France during the years that followed. He had the intellectual ability to analyze cooking old and new, to simplify methods and menus, and to define every aspect of the art that today is known as haute cuisine. He also had a practical brilliance which led him to become the most sought-after chef of his generation, with an international career in the capitals of Europe. Like Napoleon he combined, on his own level, a classic sense of order with romantic ambitions and a flair for self-dramatization.
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