My maternal grandparents married in Hong Kong more than nine decades ago. The certificate of marriage reads: “On the 18th August, 1919, Ko Chong, Age 50, Bachelor and Accountant married Au Na Sheung, Age 30, Spinster and Teacher in to Tsai Church at Victoria in Hong Kong.”
Now I’m in the city where their life together began. I’m here to learn about their food. Sidney Cheung, a professor of anthropology at the Chinese University of Hong Kong, tells me, “Low cuisine depends on basic ingredients; it’s country-style cooking. High cuisine builds up from daily life. It’s everyday food made into cuisine.” Two to three hundred years ago, the Hakka came to villages in Hong Kong. Now most Hakkas live in the northern part of the New Territories, where there’s farming and river and ocean fishing.