Winston H. Chang Jr. calls himself a “Hakkaologist”—a name he coined to describe an expert on Hakka culture. He claims that the Chang surname is the third most common in the world. His family can trace back two hundred generations to one man, Chang Kim Yit, who founded the Chang village of Hoc Foo Do. Winston started research on his father’s experiences as a Hakka shopkeeper and ended up writing two books, The Legacy of the Hakka Shopkeepers of the West Indies and Foods of the Hakka Shops.
Winston’s father, a former schoolteacher, came from Guangdong Province to Trinidad in 1938. He first worked for a cocoa trader, where he danced on cocoa beans with his bare feet to polish them, and later became a manager and entrepreneur. He married a local Cantonese woman, and the family business grew to include more relatives and eventually a supermarket complex. Many Hakka families, including that of Winston’s wife, Marie, have similar backgrounds. The shop dictated the lifestyle, diet, and living conditions of the family, and everyone ate what the shop provided—often leftovers or slow-selling items.