Hakka-Indian Flavors in New York

In the winter of 2005, Jacqueline Newman, editor of Flavor and Fortune, the magazine of the Institute of the Science and Art of Chinese Cuisine, introduced me to the Lo family, owners of Tangra Masala, a small restaurant in Elmhurst, Queens. The dishes at Tangra Masala defied traditional descriptions. They were neither pure Chinese nor pure Indian, but a delicious blend of Indian spices, soy sauce, and Chinese techniques merged together to create an enticing mix of flavors. When I find out the owners are Hakkas from Calcutta, I know I’ll be back.