A Moroccan family that adopted me for a while would start their Friday feast with a bowl of fried green chillies, bread and salt. You would peel the papery skin off the chilli, sprinkle with salt and down it in one. The pain from the heat would make you sweat and feel like your ears were about to pop, then you’d have some bread and go for more. Hard to explain why but hard to stop. Chilli heat is meant to build your appetite, and you’d need a big appetite for the feast that would follow – the combination of Moroccan generosity and Jewish anxiety meant that the Friday night dinners in this house were an epic feat, a culmination of days of shopping and cooking, generations of experience and the labour of many hands.