One & Two

Don’t Knock Masturbation,’ Woody Allen once said: ‘it’s sex with someone I love.’ Most people can’t help finding something embarrassingly onanis-tic about taking pleasure in eating alone. Even those who claim to love food think that cooking just for yourself is either extravagantly self-indulgent or a plain waste of time and effort. But you don’t have to belong to the drearily narcissistic learn-to-love-yourself school of thought to grasp that it might be a good thing to consider yourself worth cooking for. And the sort of food you cook for yourself will be different from the food you might lay on for tablefuls of people: it will be better.