Extravagant But Still Elegant Dinner for 8

This is the sort of dinner I dream of: the perfect birthday dinner party for someone who likes oysters and whose birthday (like mine) falls on a suitable date. You can get oysters all the year round now (or some types) but they’re still best in winter. Buy an oyster knife at the same time as your oysters: 6 per person. Ask the fishmonger for proper instructions as to cleaning (if necessary) and opening. And you’ll need either coarse salt or crushed ice to sit them on. I used to eat oysters and sausages at Alastair Little’s first, eponymous, restaurant in Frith Street. He served the most inspired starter in town: cold, cold oysters with hot spicy Chinesey sausages.