Although I subsist mostly on carbohydrates and vegetables when I’m trying to lose weight, I like red meat every now and then when I’m not eating so much; it’s filling, it makes me feel better (in France doctors can still prescribe steak and red wine for patients who are run down) and it seems an efficient use of restricted calories. Fillet is the leanest cut, and the easiest one to get in the right, slight, single-portion size (I aim for about 125g to make room for other components, before or after) but if I’ve got a friend over, or just feel like a meaty blow-out, I buy a 225g 2cm-thick slab of rump, put it on the griddle and cook till crusty without, tender and bloody within. Then I take it off the griddle, sprinkle with salt and leave it to rest on a plate for 5–10 minutes.