Too much is made of the gluttony associated with Christmas. The media and retail business patronise us with images of consumerism they’d like us to ape and January’s supposed belt-tightening after the feast becomes laboured. ‘Suffering from one mince pie too many? Lose those extra pounds’. This is a pity because January, far from offering a bleak prospect of ravaged shelves, is one of the year’s best months for fresh produce. The highlights are British-grown vegetables, fish and shellfish from home waters, imported exotic and citrus fruits.