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Vegetables

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By Jeremy Round

Published 1988

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A good frost is considered beneficial for some crops – tightening up and concentrating the sweetness of sprouts and mellowing kale and parsnips. But a degree or three more of frost, and leeks can be written off and even Jersey cauliflowers suffer.

Watercress is always one of the first vegetables to become scarce in bad weather as the beds ice over, but re-establishes itself quickly in milder conditions. It makes the season’s simplest salad partnered with slices of fresh orange. No dressing is necessary – just salt and freshly ground black pepper. An arrangement of Belgian chicory leaves with toasted and roughly pounded pine kernels or hazelnuts and a dressing of olive oil and dark, rich balsamic vinegar, perhaps sweetened with a few drops of port, makes a more sophisticated salad.

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