Meat

Appears in
top 1000The Independent Cook: Strategies for Seasonal Cooking
The Independent Cook

By Jeremy Round

Published 1988

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Feathered game has virtually come to an end. The condition of the remaining pigeons will depend on how bad a time the weather has given them; the same applies to rabbit and hare. Mr Feller, who runs the best butcher’s in Oxford, recommends hogget as some of the month’s best meat. This is lamb coming up to its first birthday, firm, juicy and red, so perfect for curries and strongly flavoured Middle Eastern dishes.

Chicken tends to be good value at this time of year. Try frying seasoned breasts, dipped in flour, in butter until well coloured. Add strips of fresh sage (imports from Israel are widely available throughout the winter) and a big splash of dry white vermouth. Boil and stir until the sauce is syrupy.