Meat

Feathered game has virtually come to an end. The condition of the remaining pigeons will depend on how bad a time the weather has given them; the same applies to rabbit and hare. Mr Feller, who runs the best butcher’s in Oxford, recommends hogget as some of the month’s best meat. This is lamb coming up to its first birthday, firm, juicy and red, so perfect for curries and strongly flavoured Middle Eastern dishes.