Vegetables

The Brussels sprout season is ending; some are still in good condition, but look carefully for loosely hearted, yellowing, tough old monsters. There are few things in cookery less appealing than a sub-standard sprout.

Even if recent weather has been severe, there should be fit spring greens from Kent and Cornwall. Watercress may be at its scarcest and ropiest. But fat, ageing, late-season leeks – fine for stews, bakes or thinly sliced in a stir-fry – generally manage to rally successfully in the worst conditions. If English cauliflower has suffered, look to French and Italian imports until fine Jersey specimens appear at the end of the month.