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Meat, Poultry and Game

Appears in
top 1000The Independent Cook: Strategies for Seasonal Cooking
The Independent Cook

By Jeremy Round

Published 1988

  • About
Half a century ago, pork was a seasonal meat, killed from September until February or March, and considered unsafe to eat in the summer. The mild flavour and high fat content make it a good medium for assertively mucked-about casseroles and stews. Try garlic, slices of whole fresh or pickled lemon and bruised coriander seed with white wine in a slow braise of cubed pork shoulder.

Economy cuts of beef make ideal comfort food at this bum end of the winter – chuck, blade, shin and skirt for braising and stewing – brisket for slow pot-roasts, salted for boiling. Richest and most satisfying are casseroles of oxtail or heart. Most offal – calves’ liver, some sweetbreads and veal kidney are the obvious exceptions – is a bargain most of the time. Explore Britain’s culinary base-line with chitterlings, elder (udder), cowheel, tripe with onions, kidneys with onions, or thick slices of liver dredged in seasoned flour then quickly fried with onions.

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