Some of the world’s best new-season lamb is raised in the mountains of Powys in central Wales. The sheep of the area are fine-boned, with sweet meat, feeding on open pastures and long established, traditional herbage rather than the new grasses introduced elsewhere. Some are pure bred Welsh Mountain, others have been crossed with Down rams, to give a more developed musculature and leaner meat. The main flush of lambs is now being reared for dressing in three to four months’ time: at the height of the season in June and July, an abbatoir might kill 4,000 animals a week.